Looking to learn from you. Best tips?

[Yzerfan]

When trading, it is rude to ask for Autos/GU'd when all the inquiring person wants from you are a few common inserts/parallels. Even if they both have the same BV, don't do it. I made the mistake of doing this when I was newer to the site.

Don't bother with Photobucket, just use the inventory tool on this site. It is easy to use and extremely efficient.

Try not to let the negativity on this site discourage you. Everybody has a complaint about something, so just try to keep it positive and ignore the naysayers as much as possible.

[flemingc04]

Lots of great points already made. A few I would point out:
A. When mailing cards, do not send in a plain white envelope (PWE) unless the other trader agrees to it as cards can potentially get damaged from the rollers when they go through the distribution centres. The common way to send is with a bubble envelope. Personally, I buy a 3-pack of size 0 envelopes from Dollarama for $1 and cut them in half and tape/seal the ends shut. Be sure to tape the top of the toploader or use a team bag to ensure the cards do not slip out.
B. The common way to protect your cards is with a penny sleeve and toploader, or just use a magnetic one-touch holder. If you would like, you can also put the toploaders or one-touch in a team bag.
C. If you are considering a graded card, understand the company as some are not reputable companies. Beckett (BGS & BCCG), PSA, and KSA are all common grading companies.
D. Memorabilia on cards can vary from being game worn, event worn, event used, etc. Usually it will say on the back of the card. Commonly card with the latest rookies will be event worn rather than game worn. Many of the jerseys are worn for photoshoots because games have not been played for the companies to acquire the cards for the sets until the year after their rookie season. The same goes for retired players as jerseys may be from HHOF or Legends games.
E. Upper Deck Young Guns and SP Authentic Rookie Autos are usually considered the "must have" to a player collection, although there are many great rookies to be found between Upper Deck and Panini.
F. Because of the lockout, this year's rookie crop is weaker than usual as many guys like Nail Yaupov have not played yet and therefore rookie cards cannot be made. The main rookies to be pulled right now are guys like Chris Kreider, Sven Bartschi, and Casey Cizikas.
G. When collecting, buying singles is generally cheaper than breaking packs/boxes.

Have you decided if you like certain sets or if you mainly want to focus on the Edmonton Oilers? If you're looking at set collecting, it would be good to decide what you like in general as there are many sets that have different focuses (rookies, parallels, memorabilia, autos, goalies, prospects, Hall of Famers, etc.)

Happy collecting and if you ever have any questions about trading, the rules or etiquette, feel free to message a Mod for assistance.

[Wickabee]

When trading, it is rude to ask for Autos/GU'd when all the inquiring person wants from you are a few common inserts/parallels. Even if they both have the same BV, don't do it. I made the mistake of doing this when I was newer to the site.

Don't bother with Photobucket, just use the inventory tool on this site. It is easy to use and extremely efficient.

Try not to let the negativity on this site discourage you. Everybody has a complaint about something, so just try to keep it positive and ignore the naysayers as much as possible.

I just want to reply to these points.
1: A lot of people are like that, but many aren't. I don't see a need to only trade JSY for JSY or AU for AU. Sometimes people take offense and let rip when a simple "No thanks" would do, but those are people I (personally. not telling others what to do) do not want to trade with anyway.

2: I use photobucket and it is very useful if used correctly. This means proper organization, including using the "tags". Take a look through mine. I have taken a LOT of time to organize it for easy browsing. Just remember, if you use photobucket, be prepared for a lot of people to refuse to look at it. What it does CD in super handy for is posting pictures on these boards, since you can't upload them here directly from your computer. Of course, any hosting site will do, so if you already have a favourite and just want to post pictures by all means use that.

3: Unfortunately, there is a lot of negativity around here at times. I think it can often be attributed to outside factors. For example, once the lockout got a few weeks in, there was suddenly an overload of "trade gone bad" threads. That seems to have died down (or I'm just not paying attention) lately, but I'm sure we'll get another batch eventually (usually playoff time...which brings me to my next point. The "Hockey Chat" forum is not for the faint of heart during playoffs. Just a heads up).

Relax, have fun, enjoy...oh, and send anything in my signature directly to me

[xpucksx]

There is a decent chance, with newer more glossy cards especially, that over time the card will stick to the top cover, and if you try to remove the card it will peel. One-touch cases are the way to go.

Crap...I have quite a few cards in those cases. I guess the up-side is that I don't really ever plan to take them out. thanks for the heads up though...I will invest in some of the magnetic guys when the time comes

[xpucksx]

Lots of great points already made. A few I would point out:
A. When mailing cards, do not send in a plain white envelope (PWE) unless the other trader agrees to it as cards can potentially get damaged from the rollers when they go through the distribution centres. The common way to send is with a bubble envelope. Personally, I buy a 3-pack of size 0 envelopes from Dollarama for $1 and cut them in half and tape/seal the ends shut. Be sure to tape the top of the toploader or use a team bag to ensure the cards do not slip out.
B. The common way to protect your cards is with a penny sleeve and toploader, or just use a magnetic one-touch holder. If you would like, you can also put the toploaders or one-touch in a team bag.
C. If you are considering a graded card, understand the company as some are not reputable companies. Beckett (BGS & BCCG), PSA, and KSA are all common grading companies.
D. Memorabilia on cards can vary from being game worn, event worn, event used, etc. Usually it will say on the back of the card. Commonly card with the latest rookies will be event worn rather than game worn. Many of the jerseys are worn for photoshoots because games have not been played for the companies to acquire the cards for the sets until the year after their rookie season. The same goes for retired players as jerseys may be from HHOF or Legends games.
E. Upper Deck Young Guns and SP Authentic Rookie Autos are usually considered the "must have" to a player collection, although there are many great rookies to be found between Upper Deck and Panini.
F. Because of the lockout, this year's rookie crop is weaker than usual as many guys like Nail Yaupov have not played yet and therefore rookie cards cannot be made. The main rookies to be pulled right now are guys like Chris Kreider, Sven Bartschi, and Casey Cizikas.
G. When collecting, buying singles is generally cheaper than breaking packs/boxes.

Have you decided if you like certain sets or if you mainly want to focus on the Edmonton Oilers? If you're looking at set collecting, it would be good to decide what you like in general as there are many sets that have different focuses (rookies, parallels, memorabilia, autos, goalies, prospects, Hall of Famers, etc.)

Happy collecting and if you ever have any questions about trading, the rules or etiquette, feel free to message a Mod for assistance.

This thread alone is an example of the positive side of this forum for sure. I have learned alot that will hopefully help me steer in the right direction as well. The above points are golden

Also, I think that the negative-Nellies can be handled by not feeding into their game...just like any other forum. All they want is attention.

[mrjgardiner]

Lots of great points already made. A few I would point out:
A. When mailing cards, do not send in a plain white envelope (PWE) unless the other trader agrees to it as cards can potentially get damaged from the rollers when they go through the distribution centres. The common way to send is with a bubble envelope. Personally, I buy a 3-pack of size 0 envelopes from Dollarama for $1 and cut them in half and tape/seal the ends shut. Be sure to tape the top of the toploader or use a team bag to ensure the cards do not slip out.
B. The common way to protect your cards is with a penny sleeve and toploader, or just use a magnetic one-touch holder. If you would like, you can also put the toploaders or one-touch in a team bag.
C. If you are considering a graded card, understand the company as some are not reputable companies. Beckett (BGS & BCCG), PSA, and KSA are all common grading companies.
D. Memorabilia on cards can vary from being game worn, event worn, event used, etc. Usually it will say on the back of the card. Commonly card with the latest rookies will be event worn rather than game worn. Many of the jerseys are worn for photoshoots because games have not been played for the companies to acquire the cards for the sets until the year after their rookie season. The same goes for retired players as jerseys may be from HHOF or Legends games.
E. Upper Deck Young Guns and SP Authentic Rookie Autos are usually considered the "must have" to a player collection, although there are many great rookies to be found between Upper Deck and Panini.
F. Because of the lockout, this year's rookie crop is weaker than usual as many guys like Nail Yaupov have not played yet and therefore rookie cards cannot be made. The main rookies to be pulled right now are guys like Chris Kreider, Sven Bartschi, and Casey Cizikas.
G. When collecting, buying singles is generally cheaper than breaking packs/boxes.

Have you decided if you like certain sets or if you mainly want to focus on the Edmonton Oilers? If you're looking at set collecting, it would be good to decide what you like in general as there are many sets that have different focuses (rookies, parallels, memorabilia, autos, goalies, prospects, Hall of Famers, etc.)

Happy collecting and if you ever have any questions about trading, the rules or etiquette, feel free to message a Mod for assistance.

So helpful, thanks so much. What's a "team bag"?

I'm collecting ALL Oiler cards from 2010-2013 UD Series 1 first and then will branch out to other years or other series. Appreciate the heads up on SP Authentic Rookies, will definitely consider them.

[DnJcards]

So helpful, thanks so much. What's a "team bag"?

I'm collecting ALL Oiler cards from 2010-2013 UD Series 1 first and then will branch out to other years or other series. Appreciate the heads up on SP Authentic Rookies, will definitely consider them.

They are just bags that you can buy to put you cards in before they are out in a bubble mailer

http://www.blowoutcards.com/index.ph...oducts_id=2153

There's a link to a description and stuff

[mrjgardiner]

You guys have been great, so thankful for all the helpful pointers. Here's some questions I still have:

1. Are there any sets that I should stay away from due to a low value/demand? I heard 08-09 UD is not valuable, any other years or whole brands?
2. Are cards almost always worth less than the BV?
3. I just got the most recent Beckett Annual Guide. If I'm buying a single from my local shop or off another person, what is a fair price to pay in relation to the BV?
4. I also have some questions about receiving autographs of players: Is there any type of card where getting an auto would bring down the value? Is there any type of card where getting an auto would NOT bring up the value? Does it matter where on the card they sign or what type of pen/marker they use?

[CoolHandLuke]

You guys have been great, so thankful for all the helpful pointers. Here's some questions I still have:

1. Are there any sets that I should stay away from due to a low value/demand? I heard 08-09 UD is not valuable, any other years or whole brands?
2. Are cards almost always worth less than the BV?
3. I just got the most recent Beckett Annual Guide. If I'm buying a single from my local shop or off another person, what is a fair price to pay in relation to the BV?
4. I also have some questions about receiving autographs of players: Is there any type of card where getting an auto would bring down the value? Is there any type of card where getting an auto would NOT bring up the value? Does it matter where on the card they sign or what type of pen/marker they use?

Beckett Book Value have a low and a high price. People always refer to BV as the high price and a range of a book value is alway just that, a range a card would sell for. So if you have a low of $30 and a high of $50 in most case it not realistic to think you would get 50$. Also with ebay and online store often a card sell way under the book value. Then again some player can sell at time higher then a BV (rare). Book value is use most often to trade and some will never want to use BV and will refer to ebay sales instead. Yet on ebay, it's not because a sale went for 10$ that all other sale will or should be 10$. I sugest you take ebay sales with a grain of salt. One sale is not a good sample. Ten sales is a good sample. Some auction just go for really low and other really high. So sale price vary. This is also why beckett put a price range.

Also Local card store tend to sell cards at beckett high BV. Convinient for them to do so and why Internet is usefull to get better deals.

Many traders will fight over value and in the end it's about what you feel is the right value you want in a trade or sale. Beckett is just a guide, not a bible and more often then not card can be puschase at 50%, 33% and even lower then the high BV on ebay and via collectors. With higher end player, you will always pay much closer to the high BV then for player no one collects.

I nerver buy card with in person auto on them. First they are not athenticated, they are not the card in question since the card is altered and I would only consider to let player sign low value cards. Never have them sign a card with a big value as in My opinion many will never want to evern consider paying for that card. Like I said for many collector it does alter the card and make the card with no value to some. Very few will sell cards with a in person auto on them. When ever I have player sign cards, I will take base cards, not insert or memorabilia or any card with a good value on them.

In the end cards value will always go down in time for 95% of the cards. When a product come out, you always have the collector hype to get the cards they need and then interest will fade in time. So player are at in the moment and then the year after the hype is done and cards will be hard to even sell them low.

What you need to undertand is collecting is NOT a investement. While you can always sell them back, you will in most case never get as much as you paid. Collecting is about having fun. Very few make money with cards and usually they are not collector but person buying low to turn around and sell higher right away.

[mrjgardiner]

Very helpful. Thanks Luke!