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  1. #1

    How to pick cards for grading!!!

    I'm relatively new to the hobby after being out of collecting for a while so this whole grading thing is new to me... My question is I know how they grade standard cards, but how do they grade game used relic cards. Is it the same criteria or is it different, because alot of my game used cards have no border so how do they figure centering...If anyone could help me I would appreciate it as I am trying to maybe put together some cards to send in!!

    Thanks!!

  2. #2
    Start with overall visual eye-appeal. Once you've picked what you think are eye pleasing cards. Get the grader from hell mindset going(you will need some sort of lighted magnification).
    *Original luster and surface blems are a killer(real visible under 10x lighted magnification)
    *Corners and Edges are another, look closely for wear front and back(again using lighted 10x).
    *Centering is tough on G.U. but you can tell if angle is off.On boarder cards measure top,bottom and both sides. Add both top and bottom together(sum), then divide both by the sum EX: 2.2 top, 2.2 bottom = 4.4 http://www.brucemo.com/cards/articles/grading.htm( He explains this good !!!)


    Remember be tough, cuz they will. $7-$10 per card isn't cheap!nmt 8's allow some leeway from my dealings,but 9's and 10's?? SO submit and pray.Oh and Good Luck
    Perfection is not attainable. But if we chase perfection, we can catch excellence.
    As of May 2017 ~ STILL Collect the following --> ALL 01-04 UD SP Legendary cuts Mlb G/U *Also, Topps insert Sp's.
    1985T Mlb mini's issue(Canadian release)
    Vintage & Modern issues: Have old school players but want current players? I may want them, please Pm me.Thank You | GINTER G/U

  3. #3
    After re-reading your request, I have yet to find anything foundational In terms of G/U. I did talk to quite a few people and the best replies dealt with: looking at the backs of the cards and compare to other cards from the same set as to where the name brand,logo,numbering,etc is supposed to be. hope this helps
    Perfection is not attainable. But if we chase perfection, we can catch excellence.
    As of May 2017 ~ STILL Collect the following --> ALL 01-04 UD SP Legendary cuts Mlb G/U *Also, Topps insert Sp's.
    1985T Mlb mini's issue(Canadian release)
    Vintage & Modern issues: Have old school players but want current players? I may want them, please Pm me.Thank You | GINTER G/U

  4. #4

  5. #5

    Wink

    -Qball76

    I usually pull the cards, every one that is a rookie or rookie insert and look at corners first. Check for wear and tear on those. I next look at the centering. You can usually tell if the centering is nice because alot of cards feature a frame like border on them. That makes it so much easier. Look at the surface of the card. See if it has dings, scratches ect. The last is the edges. On some cards, like ones with a holofoil type look, are much harder to grade high because the edging is tough to get in a flake free condition. I would look at base card stuff, mostly low end star RC's to send(Topps, Upper Deck, Fleer, ect.) Those are usually the easiest ones to guess how well they will grade. Of course, those grading services can see the smallest things wrong with card even if you cannot. If you don't see flaws, try grading it. even if you see one "minor" thing wrong, it can effect the grade in that category from a half to full number grade. You can veiw three cards I got back from BGS on the thread List you favorite graded card. Happy hunting!

  6. #6
    If it has any obvious nicks, unless it is an old rookie card, don't send it in... Just a waste of your money to send a banged up card to get a rating of 4.

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