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  1. #21




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    @krunchtyme


    That would be great if you guys could help me. I am very interested in that.

    Here are some more. These were from my old collection and some new one I've recently added.

    *The Herro has a tape residue on the holder.











































  2. #22




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    @frankdemariany

    Again, the cards look awesome and I am not trying to say any different. Just going to point out some possible issues...

    Deion Sanders - Beautiful Card. I would check the left edge of that card. Under magnification, its looks off. Hard to explain, it might not have been as clean a cut as the right side. Especially along the left top portion of the card. Now that I've seen it magnifies, I actually see it in the non-magnified view. Could be the picture, but I'd check it. Everything else looked great. Centering, colors, eye appeal, corners, all looked really good.

    Hardaway cards - The one on the right is slightly off-centered to my eye. That said, and again it may be the lighting from the picture, but th eone on the right looks like the coloring is better. It's richer, or darker than the one on the left. Lets focus on the one of the left. The Hardaway card on the left may have a top to bottom centering issue. The lower left corner looks "off", I'd check it. We already mentioned the coloring, which is really good, until you put these two cards together. There seems to be white specs on the face of the card. Could be dust particles, etc, but I would check and see if they are actually on the card. It looks like a scratch above his head as well between his end and the white border.

    The card on the right has a dark dot in the white border. I mentioned the centering already. I would look at his shoulder, there is a white line (could be something in the pic, like dust, etc, but I would check that and the bottom left corner. So this brings up an interesting point. The bottom left corner looks off. Sharp but not crisp. I noticed that alot of cards in penny sleeves appear this way when scanned in. It isn't actually the card. I think it is the scanner setting which, by default are for a quality to speed ratio to give you the best picture to the human eye, but save space and not make the picture a huge file. In my job we see that in videos all the time, it's actually in ever video you just don't normally see it, unless of course you are looking for it. So the corner may be perfect, just check it,

    Funny, both cards have a mark on his knee in the exact same spot. Manufacturing defect. The left one looks like it has "dog hairs" or scratches on the face. Could be the penny sleeve having been bent or folder before, or there is something their.

    Barkley - The top and bottom edges are not clean. I love this card, actually the design of this card. The picture has scratches on the face. Not sure if that is the sleeve or the card. The same mystery white dots (although very few and they don't detract from the eye appeal of the card) are present in the blue ink along the left. I don't think it would affect the grade at all. Really, it's just in the "R" of 76er's. The scratches seem to be real though. That is really a very beautiful card! A few minor print dots on the reverse. See in the red and in the word completed in the yellow section. The corners don't look near as good from the reverse. Again, could just be the picture/scanning.

    Keyshawn - WOW. Beautiful card. I would check the edges, but I think they look great. I think I am seeing a picture issue not anything else. Color great. I can see the scratches are on the holder, not the face of the card. The back confirms how nice the front is. Card looksamazing!

    I'll look at some more later.

  3. #23




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    Elway... Wow. Nice card. From the back the black edges are super tough, but those look really good. Die cut cards are tough in general. Extra cuts, extra edges, etc... I've never had good luck with any die cut card. I bet you would with that one.

    OK, moving on to newer cards. I look at them a little differently. They should be 10's, so I am very critical on them. Again, I have had a lot of success (10's) but a lot of failure (9's) too. and I am not always sure why.. This is where the surface is probably the most important. The edges and corners should be mint, the card should be centered as most companies have better card stock, ink, and printing processes in general.

    A quick look and I didn't see anything that jumped out at me. Here is where Eye Appeal is the key. All of the newer ones look well centered, edges and corners looked crisp, pictures looked defines, not fuzzy or any blur, so surface scratches would be the biggest possible issue. Surface scratches can be from card on card in the pack, so it is absolutely random on which card, how, when, etc. I don't think pictures can do much for those cards, they look great. I would take my chances with those just look at the things we saw on the older ones and apply them. Remember...Eye Appeal is the key with newer cards because they should all be perfect with little handling and no age to them.

    Hope this helps. @FireRob, @Joshmets31, @Shaggy are a few other guys who look at cards and get them graded. Hopefully they will take a look at some of these as well to see if we are all seeing the same thing, or am I overly critical. What are your thoughts on the possible issues I pointed out? I'm not saying some of these cards wouldn't grade 10's, just "possible" issues I saw. Some, I am positive they would not grade a 10, even though they are really incredible examples of those specific cards.

    Hope that helped!

    Good Luck and let me or Joshmets31 know if you plan on sending any cards in. SCF is trying to boost th egrading aspect, so it would be appreciated to go through us if possible, but I also understand if you don't. Thanks for the opportunity to look at some great cards!

    Rich

  4. #24




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    @krunchtyme

    Thanks again for the feedback. It's truly been a learning experience.

    Deion Sanders - I think that is the picture because I don't see anything in that area. Looking at this again, I do some white on the top corners. This can be one of those that depends on who is evaluating it I would suppose?

    Hardaway - those white specs on his leg seem to be legit and not any dust particles. The one does off as well. That alone I assume would be an obvious reason not to send them in.

    Barkley - I didn't see what you mentioned on the front of the card but I do on the back for sure. Again I can see how this could come back not a 10.

    Keyshawn - I showed it to someone else and they told me it's a 9 and not to send it in. The foil is what's tricky as I see the top part and how it could be suspect but not sure if that is just the way the foil is. Maybe I need to post more pics?

    Thanks again for the feedback!

  5. #25




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    The foil cards are always tricky because of the edges. Again. My word isn't law or a surefire thing and seeing the cards in person always better.

    I had to blow up the BArkley to see it. I don't see it just looking at the pic, so it could total be something on the scanner/etc..

    They are great cards. It's only money...LOL

  6. #26




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    LOL. Thanks so much.

    So really based on what you said when we first started chatting, it's a 20 cards min right? So the best 20 we should look at to submit with you right? I have more to sift though but just wanted to make sure I understood.

  7. #27




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    IIt depends on the special we choose. PSA does a quarterly special and then a bulk sumission. The current quarterly specials are posted in the sticky threads and can be found here https://www.sportscardforum.com/thre...ading-Specials

    The football card special is for cards from 1972 to 1989 - $10 per card 20 card minimum.

    The bulk submission is any card/any sport 1972 to 2016 $12 per card, newer cards also a $20 card minimum. USed to be 50, happy they changed that. New cards 2017 to current are $15 per card 20 card minimum. If you don't have 20 cards to send in, check with @Joshmets31 thread here: https://www.sportscardforum.com/thre...1st-submission

    If you are planning on doing the 1972-1989 for $10 a card, I am probably your guy.

    Also, I say $10 a card. That does not include shipping from me to you after grading and insurance to PSA So I usually change an additional $1-$1,50 per card.

    we can work out details if you want to move forward. I am planning on sending some in as soon as my psa 9 drew brres rc sells on ebay or beginning of november. I am shooting for the 1972-1989 special. I am probably send some additional cards to Joshmets31 for the bulk submission.

  8. #28




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    Thank you. So the key is for me to gather all potentials and then let you know. This weekend I should be going through more and then we can go from there is that works.

    Do they all have to be in "card savers"? I'm afraid to take any potentials out of the cases in fear I'd mess them up.

  9. #29




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    They all have to be in card savers. PSA charges more if they aren't. How to ship cards can be found here: https://www.psacard.com/submissions/shipguide

    In case you catch the graded card bug...Check out the PSA set registry too! Here is the link to my dashboard: https://www.psacard.com/psasetregist...stry/dashboard

    Talk soon Rich

  10. #30




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    So I looked at your cards as well. Keep in mind, I view and post here on SCF from my phone and don’t have the luxury of a large computer screen. But I agree with @krunchtyme on everything he said. So many of the things I saw when looking at the cards he mentioned the exact same thing and then some on top of that. Made me go back to look at the cards and find what he had seen that I missed.

    Just want to welcome you to the world of graded cards. It’s a slippery slope and easy to fall off the deep end. Sounds like you might be leaning towards and interested in collecting and not just selling off your collection

    Little personal story that you didn’t ask for.

    I personally was an anti graded card guy for a very long time and only recently (a year or so ago) jumped in head first. I owned a small amount of graded cards for a long time but always debated about cracking them because I just hated graded cards that much. I like to touch and hold a card in my hands. I want to see if I can still smell or feel the bubble gum or wax or just that scent of 30 and 50 year old cardboard. Even new cards, I like the smell of that plastic and ink or what ever it is new cards smell like. There is just something beside the visual of cards that holds value. Soon as that card is encased that’s all gone. Same can be said with the shiny glimmer of the modern day cards. They just don’t sparkle as well in the light at different angles behind a slab Or the sheen on a well preserved vintage card from the 1940’s. This is why I also have raw copies of almost every card or at least of the cards that are important to me such as my Mike Singletary collection.

    What got me hooked-
    1. the PSA Set Registry Krunch mentioned was a big part of it. Maybe it’s the competitor in me? Maybe I wanted some validation or proof that I had the best Mike Singletary collection that existed?.

    The way the registry is set up it’s almost like a game. It can be anything you want really as far as just a way to keep track of your graded card collection or to challenge your self to complete a set or gather the best cards you can. The “registry sets” are very interesting. If you don’t know what they are it’s worth exploring. A “Set” could be like a complete set such as every 1989 Score with all 400 cards. Or it could just be 1989 Score Bears Team set or 1989 Score rookie cards etc. Other “sets” are every single rookie card of a certain player. Or the key rookie card of every Bear in the Hall Of Fame or every Bear who went to the Pro Bowl or NFL MVP or Defensive POY etc. there are thousands of different PSA registry sets you can build and be ranked on.

    2. Another reason I collect graded cards is the monetary value. I don’t foresee me ever selling but figure one day my kids or grandkids won’t give two craps about a 1945 Sid Luckman football card. I like to think of them as an inheritance for them and until then I get to be a kid collecting football cards. Graded cards can fetch more money than raw under certain circumstances

    3. Preservation is another reason. Once slabbed and it has that label it is what it is. Grading is a third party opinion. You and me can both disagree on a cards condition. The third party takes both our opinions out. A card can change hands 20 times but each person who gets the card next excepts the fact (or opinion) that this particular card is in “fair” or “Gem Mint” condition with little argument.

    I recommend you get the PSA Aps and check out the Set Registry. See if you like what you see. Even if you don’t build any of their sets it’s an easy way to check population reports and auction prices etc.

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