Looking to learn from you. Best tips?

**flemingc04** · 01-03-2013, 02:22 PM

Originally Posted by mrjgardiner View Post

You guys have been great, so thankful for all the helpful pointers. Here's some questions I still have:

1. Are there any sets that I should stay away from due to a low value/demand? I heard 08-09 UD is not valuable, any other years or whole brands?
2. Are cards almost always worth less than the BV?
3. I just got the most recent Beckett Annual Guide. If I'm buying a single from my local shop or off another person, what is a fair price to pay in relation to the BV?
4. I also have some questions about receiving autographs of players: Is there any type of card where getting an auto would bring down the value? Is there any type of card where getting an auto would NOT bring up the value? Does it matter where on the card they sign or what type of pen/marker they use?

Luke made a lot of good points and my opinions echo some of his:

1. I actually think 08-09 Upper Deck Series 1 has decent value. Back when it was released, many YGs from the set were in huge demand. Since then, the values have dropped, but there are still good YGs from the set: Stamkos, Giroux, Neal, etc. Sometimes you may find loose retail packs of 08-09 UD1 in a $1 bin at Toy R' Us. When I see them, I buy them - twice I have hit the Stamkos. Regardless of the hit, it's a fun break for only $1/pack. Series 2 in any UD series is usually much weaker than Series 1 and the biggest YG in 08-09 UD2 would likely be Cory Schneider. If I had to pick a weak year, it would be right now (12-13).

2 & 3. In most cases, cards will sell for less than BV, but it all comes down to demand of the card. There really isn't a certain percentage of BV that is fair to pay because it is all different. There are jersey cards and autos that can sometimes be found in cheap bins at card shows and yet some cards will go for full or more than BV (which doesn't happen often as Luke mentioned). When Stamkos had his huge scoring streak 2 years ago and when Giroux was on a tear this past season, their cards grew in demand that they were selling higher than BV because Beckett. The same can be said for Jonathan Quick (which was a huge jump because he has few RCs!) and Cory Schneider this year. If a set is just released, typically cards will sell higher for the first bit before prices cool down a couple of months later. When buying you're likely getting a fair deal if you pay 25-50% of BV, but I only say that to give you some sort of number. Card stores will liely charge a little more but they also have many costs to keep the lights on and the doors open.

Trading however is often treated differently. Most people like to trade by full BV, others like to trade by sale value (SV). It all differs from person to person. For nice multi-coloured jerseys or patches, some traders may want a premium as well (considering a plain white patch versus a patch with the eye of the Panther, or feathers from the Blackhawks logo).

4. Getting autographs in person (IP auto) is a lot of fun! There is no denying that as we all love the game and the hobby. Like Luke said, the difference between IP autos and an auto'd card from any of the companies is that the card is certified from the companies that it was signed by the player. With an IP auto, there is no guarantee to the other person that the player actually signed it. There will likely be mixed opinions about the value of a card after it is signed, but generally it devalues the card. To some people they may feel it increases it, but the majority will disagree. I know a lady who has a Bobby Orr RC and personally knows Orr. She asked if she should have him sign it to increase its value and I could not stress enough to tell her NO! I have have got many IP autos throughout the years and there is even an IP auto community on SCF. Again like Luke, I like to use lower end cards when I get them signed.

**mrjgardiner** · 01-03-2013, 02:43 PM

Very helpful. You guys probably saved me a lot of pain on the whole IP auto thing. I would have naturally thought to get them to sign my best insert I had. Glad I started this thread, you're saving me from making painful mistakes.

Also, I appreciate you letting me know that demand usually cools. That's helpful to know that I don't necessarily need to RUSH to get a card, especially if it's currently a hot one. I may be able to get it for a lower price later.

**~~Wickabee~~** · 01-03-2013, 03:27 PM

Originally Posted by mrjgardiner View Post

Very helpful. You guys probably saved me a lot of pain on the whole IP auto thing. I would have naturally thought to get them to sign my best insert I had. Glad I started this thread, you're saving me from making painful mistakes.

Also, I appreciate you letting me know that demand usually cools. That's helpful to know that I don't necessarily need to RUSH to get a card, especially if it's currently a hot one. I may be able to get it for a lower price later.

Some people never learn that second part.