When is grading worth it?

[kophax]

Hello all,

I've just started collecting and trading cards with a resent sale at my local retailer and I'm curious if/when grading is worth it if you're planning on selling the card?

I was lucky and pulled a Hopkins from a Tin of S1 this evening, the card looks to be in great shape (I'm new to this - remember!) and while the 10/10's demand a huge premium, i'm curious if it's really worth it if the card gets a lower grade?

Is this something you guys would recommend doing if you're selling the card or only if you're looking to certify your PC?

Thanks!

[StuBedaso]

I've never graded anything, but with YGs, you have to strike while the iron is hot. Waiting until you get your card back could be detrimental, say, if he gets injured, etc.

I'm not a seller, so take my opinion with a grain of salt, here:

If I pulled a /10 Nuge, and planned to sell it, I'd do, not now, but RIGHT now. Personally, I'd keep it... Again, just me

[RGM81]

If it's a card that will be a staple of the hobby, or just something special for your PC that you want to protect and guard in its current condition, grading is a good option. You need only look at the premium that a BGS 9.5 Crosby YG will fetch over an ungraded copy as evidence. Something like an Artifacts parallel - not so important.

[30ranfordfan]

Two times.


1. When the extra protection that slab offers you...... is worth the $20 you'll spend.

2. When you think the condition is good enough to fetch enough of a premium on the re-sale value of the card.


For modern stuff, you need to be absolutly sure. If you get a 9 on the Hopkins (for example) you've basically wasted $20, as the card is worth no more in the slab than it was outside of it.

[andrewconnors9]

Do not grade it, sell it now if its not PC, the last one just sold a couple days ago for over 1600$ on auction, and of course that being # 10/10 some people will consider it some sort of 1/1 (for some dumb reason) so expect around that same ballpark of 1500 - 1600$

[RGM81]

He was only referring to the Spectrum /10 as a hypothetical; you can't pull Exclusives/Spectrum out of the retail tins.

[centrehice]

I have only Graded a few cards in 50 years of collecting, but never again, as it just does not pay. The ones I've had graded have been trying to sell at a cheap price for years and they just don't move.


I Can tell you what not to grade:

1. Any Insert - period
2. Any Bum or Thumber
3. Any Regular Base/Common unless it's from 1910-1988 and is a HOfer.
4. Any Card that has foil on it's edges.
5. Any cards that chip easily like BAP Mask Foil Cards, or Dufex Cards.

[andrewconnors9]

If a YG doesnt get a 9.5 or a 10 then it was a big waste of money, the card will sell the same at BGS 9 as ungraded

[Wickabee]

If a YG doesnt get a 9.5 or a 10 then it was a big waste of money, the card will sell the same at BGS 9 as ungraded

and anything less than a 9 will bring it down.

[mr ozzie]

I have only Graded a few cards in 50 years of collecting, but never again, as it just does not pay. The ones I've had graded have been trying to sell at a cheap price for years and they just don't move.


I Can tell you what not to grade:

1. Any Insert - period
2. Any Bum or Thumber
3. Any Regular Base/Common unless it's from 1910-1988 and is a HOfer.
4. Any Card that has foil on it's edges.
5. Any cards that chip easily like BAP Mask Foil Cards, or Dufex Cards.

I agree. Leave the bases out when it comes to modern cards. Although, I do have to say, wouldn't an autograph/gu non-base set be considered an insert? That leaves only RCs.