Authentication question

[Phils747]

I'm new to collecting memorabilia and had an authentication question that I was hoping someone on here with more experience could please help to answer.

I saw a signed baseball online with a PSA/DNA hologram and looked up the authentication number from the hologram in their database and it matches. If I can get it, the ball would stay in my collection and I wouldn't have any intention of selling it.

My question is: If I don't have any intention of selling it, should I still ask for the letter that would prove its authenticity along with the hologram sticker on the ball? Also, if there is anything big that I should look for when looking at signed baseballs, please let me know.

Thank you very much.

[braves#10]

I personally never buy any memorabilia without a letter of authenticity from either PSA or JSA, but a letter from them in no way guarantees that the autograph is legit. Those companies just give their professional opinion, and sometimes they are wrong. However, an auto with a COA from PSA or JSA has a lot better chance of being real than an auto without it. Before ever buying an auto, do your own research. For example, I have seen enough Chipper Jones autographs to know what looks right and what doesn't, so if I see a ball with a PSA COA and it looks sketchy to me, I pass.

[demonhunter69]

Experience. Just like the Chipper collector. I have had enough public and private signings and done 37 years of IP (in person) autograph collecting that I can almost tell you where the stronger pressure points are on any given modern autograph. You will be able to master this after collecting for a while. Baseballs are so much harder to fake than other items because of the limited space, but lets face it, some people fake everything. Its such a sad situation that we as collectors have to pay a third party to authenticate or verify signed memorabilia. Also with some of the newer players, their autograph looks like initials or a bunch of chicken scratches. Truly a travesty. You would think athletes or personalities could write their name somewhat legible. By the way poster, now is a good time to collect because the market is as soft as silk due to the economy. Good luck in your collecting. PS, I think if you are looking for value, try to keep all of the baseball autograph collecting to sweet spot signatures as they are more appealing. You should buy the item without the letter because if it matches the database, you are good. Besides it should be considerably less expensive.

[Phils747]

Thank you very much to both of you for your advice.

[NY Sports Teams]

I'm new to collecting memorabilia and had an authentication question that I was hoping someone on here with more experience could please help to answer.

I saw a signed baseball online with a PSA/DNA hologram and looked up the authentication number from the hologram in their database and it matches. If I can get it, the ball would stay in my collection and I wouldn't have any intention of selling it.

My question is: If I don't have any intention of selling it, should I still ask for the letter that would prove its authenticity along with the hologram sticker on the ball? Also, if there is anything big that I should look for when looking at signed baseballs, please let me know.

Thank you very much.

The first two posters gave great advice, be informed on what an authentic auto looks like. The best place I believe to look at an authentic auto is with their certs. That does not pertain to older players as many of them are cuts which have been authenticated by PSA/DNA or JSA. As was stated they make plenty of mistakes. Another thing that was mentioned many of these newer clowns have ZERO respect for what their signature looks like. Most of the older players really cared how their auto looked. If you are buying an item you should always get a COA unless you trust the person you are dealing with and their item matches up with know authentic signatures. If you get an auto in person I see no reason to get it authenticated if you are not selling it. Many times the authentication cost more than what you will actually get for the item once it's authenticated. Here is a fine example of PSA/DNA the so-called best work. Just one of many.

http://haulsofshame.com/blog/?p=11626

Too many clowns and not enough circuses.

...Rick

EDIT: If you are going to buy the best companies are Steiner, Mounted Memories, TriStar and Upper Deck Authenticated. There are a couple of others that you can trust too.

[NY Sports Teams]

I would also add be familiar with which companies have exclusive contracts with which athlete's. That really pertains to the bigger stars. But the bigger stars are the ones you pay the most for. The reason I mentioned Steiner, Mounted Memories, TriStar, UDA is because they conduct their own signings. I believe if they are selling something that was authenticated by someone they have that listed in the description for that item.

...Rick

[ChosenOne719]

good advice given by all... I disagree with NY Sports Teams on one thing if you get an in person or at a show auto of a good player get it authenticated even if you don't plan to sell... you may not plan to sell right now but at some point who knows something may come up and you might have to or lets say later on down the road if anything happens to you and the collection ends up in the hands of a family member or something like that well at some point it might get sold and having it authenticated will bring them more money for it

[Mr T Plush]

Honestly if it is a current player id just research the signature and make sure it looks right. While a lot of people hate initials and chicken scratch it is harder to copy(as long as they are consistent).

If it is for my personal collection getting every piece of authentication isnt a big deal unless their asking price is strangely low or a big ticket item. Also on EBay I like to look if they are selling lots of memorabilia or not. If they have a lot I find them more trusted.

It really depends on who you are. Some people need total authentication and some need some or none at all. If you Dont think youre comfortable buying it or question it without the letter Dont buy it.

[dscards]

Also on EBay I like to look if they are selling lots of memorabilia or not. If they have a lot I find them more trusted.
.

I'd be careful with this assumption. Most forgers don't just fake one or two items, they do tons of memorabilia. Normally if a seller has a lot of signed items for sale from big stars, it's a red flag to me and I stay away.

[NY Sports Teams]

good advice given by all... I disagree with NY Sports Teams on one thing if you get an in person or at a show auto of a good player get it authenticated even if you don't plan to sell... you may not plan to sell right now but at some point who knows something may come up and you might have to or lets say later on down the road if anything happens to you and the collection ends up in the hands of a family member or something like that well at some point it might get sold and having it authenticated will bring them more money for it

Unless you have a boatload of money I don't see any reason why anyone would pay $15 or more for authentication plus shipping there and shipping back for an auto that will sell for $20. That's just my 02.

I'd be careful with this assumption. Most forgers don't just fake one or two items, they do tons of memorabilia. Normally if a seller has a lot of signed items for sale from big stars, it's a red flag to me and I stay away.

Exactly. If someone has 15 auto's of Mike Trout I'd be very wary. A very easy auto to forge.

...Rick