Question about grading

[Cunnuc]

So I have never submitted a card to get graded but find myself wondering about on-site grading at card shows. So I've heard about the BGCS, PSA, KSA grading debate and I agree most people want the BCGS cards. Understandable.

I have a Titanium Gustav Nyquist 14/14 Rookie Card that I would love to get graded. It's my baby. I was offered $400 for it a while back when he had the most points in a span of 20+ games. I didn't wanna sell it, just wanted to test the market. I have a pile of cards I think are gradable. I check each card with a jewellers loupe to see the edges/corners up close. I am weary of the Nyquist card though.

So here is my question... if I were to get this card graded at say the Toronto Expo and they give it a grade that I find undesirable am I allowed to refuse the casing they put it in? Or do they put them in one of those temporary soft covers which the card can easily be removed from.

Also, do you think it is even worth getting this particular card graded and if so at which grade would you think it becomes worth it?

Thanks! :)

[pwskelly]

I would go with Beckett for modern cards. If you don't like the grade, remove it from the case yourself. There are lots of videos online that show you how to do this safely. I would personally grade rare cards, even if it isn't the grade you want. Why? Beckett offers the toughest slabs in the industry. They are easy to chip and scratch, but near impossible to break (unless you're trying). So even if your card received a grade of 7, it's in a tough as nails case, and if you ever want to sell it you and the buyer know its condition, and that it's authentic! I would always buy a graded card over a non-graded card if it is rare and expensive for the peace of mind that it brings, regardless of the grade.

By the way, ask for BGS, not BCCG ... the later is garbage and used for auction houses which want cheap, fast grades to sell to the masses.

[capt55]

At the Big show they give you raw graded cards.(BGS)

I think at the other show's, KSA will grade them there and put them in cases.

[pwskelly]

At the show's they give you raw graded cards.

That sucks ... well the raw graded card review is not a bad option if you are looking for a third-party appraisal of your card's condition. If you like the grade offered you can always submit it for grading to Beckett's office in Texas.

[Cunnuc]

Ah.. total newbie here when it comes to grading slabs. I own quite a few slabbed by each company but I bought them like this. I suppose thats why let's say... ITG History of Hockey has BGCS or PSA/DNA authenticated autos... cause it's quick and cheap.

For anyone that's been to a show or expo... do they just put them in the soft cover?

I'm down for breaking a hard case, but why pay for it if I just wanna break it? This is what I'm getting down to.

Next question is... Would a Titanium True Rookie Gustav Nyquist 14/14 (ebay 1/1 OMG!!! :P) be more desirable not graded or a BGS grading of lets say... 8.5 with 8.0 corners or edges (cause let's face it, nowadays everything is centered without flaw 98% of the time)? Or .. what is the difference between 8.5 and 8.0? At which point would someone pay more for the raw card than a grade? Assuming (with old cards) people take the chance on a nice looking raw card assuming they have the chance of it being graded 8.0+ and thus making it an investment in the long run.

[Cunnuc]

Okay... that is something I never thought of. Have it graded for cheap and see the out-come by a 'professional' and if it's good then send it to the Top-Tier-Grading Company. Great idea. I've heard a KSA 10 going to BGS would be like 8.5 and that's why people shell out big bucks for a BGS 9.5-10.

For me, I own a jewellers loupe because of actual jewellery and precious metals. Condition is everything and I understand that. An MS70 is worth up to 10x more than an MS69 for rarer coins. Like rarer cards obviously they population report of each condition reflects the value.

So another question... is a 14/14 Titanium True Rookie worth grading? I know Titanium in the early 2000's were a big deal and it seemed 11-12 was a big deal too but I feel they have dropped off since then. Another reason why I bring all this up.

A crosby RC graded 10... let's say there is 5,000 of them but only 40 are graded 10 of 10. Does it matter if a /14 is graded 8, 9, 10 all that much? I understand grading it at Time=0 and then slabbing it means it is graded the same at Time=infinity.

[JoelCarry]

I don't think unless the card grades higher then 9.0 it will add any value.If it grades less it will devalue the card.
Grading of cards is really a scam as it is subjective and i can provide some links to grading frauds or just google it.
I did a quick search of population reports from a site and BGS had a total of 14 cards of Nyquist from panini graded and 21 from the Cup.
There were none of titanium graded and there seems to be a fair amount of 9.5's such as 10 of the 21 from the Cup and 7 of the 14 from panini.
If you really want to inspect a card then clean your scanner , take the card from the case and scan it at 600dpi or better. you will see flaws your naked
eye will not. I would never buy a card graded by KSA ever.
I would only grade your Nyquist to protect the card.

[KingKuba]

Grading a card to make it authentic is silly on low numbered cards...especially since beckett grades fakes anyway. Fake patches, fake counterfeits from China. ..all stabbed.

It's different with vintage...

Titanium cards don't grade well and people buying don't want them grade that much...look how few are graded....

for protection it's nice but also bulky...

[theboxbreaker96]

I don't think unless the card grades higher then 9.0 it will add any value.If it grades less it will devalue the card.
Grading of cards is really a scam as it is subjective and i can provide some links to grading frauds or just google it.
I did a quick search of population reports from a site and BGS had a total of 14 cards of Nyquist from panini graded and 21 from the Cup.
There were none of titanium graded and there seems to be a fair amount of 9.5's such as 10 of the 21 from the Cup and 7 of the 14 from panini.
If you really want to inspect a card then clean your scanner , take the card from the case and scan it at 600dpi or better. you will see flaws your naked
eye will not. I would never buy a card graded by KSA ever.
I would only grade your Nyquist to protect the card.

Some good research there. I also agree a 10 or 9.5 will add some value a 9 will not add any value nor will it decrease value. However anything below a 9 can and will decrease value even if its a lower numbered card. If its lower than a 9 then it tells me that it has some problems somewhere on the card.

I would only grade it through beckett and only if you think it has a good chance to come back a 9.5 or even 10. I would never grade a card to "protect it" unless it was vintage. Your wasting your money. A one touch or toploader do just fine.

If it comes back a 9 or lower I would bust it out of the case because I know a lot of people that don't want graded cards unless its a 9.5 or 10 and I am one of those people. I have busted out multiple 9's and even more 8.5's and lower.

In the end unless you think it will come back a 9.5 or 10 then don't grade it as your just wasting your money

[MattDMC]

Don't grade it, Sell it to me!!!

In all seriousness though you can't go wrong with grading it with BGS. 9 or higher and you did well, 9 is somewhat comparable to Raw and 9.5 or higher would bring a premium if you ever choose to sell (Again I'm right here and easy to find ). Anything under a 9 could hurt resale value but since you do say it is PC even with a grade under 9 its still not a bad idea to get slabbed as it would prevent any and all future damage. If it does come back under a 9 and one day you want to sell it () the grade may not even hurt you, just break it out of the slab before you sell and sell it raw.

I'd do BGS regardless of what it would grade high or low just for the piece of mind for the protection that a BGS slab offers.