Question about grading

[theboxbreaker96]

I'd do BGS regardless of what it would grade high or low just for the piece of mind for the protection that a BGS slab offers.

I have seen protection of the card come up a couple of times now. Im not quite sure I understand that. Yes, being in a beckett case means that the cards will not get damaged in any way shape or form unless its ran over by a truck. However, if that's the only reason to get it graded isn't that wasting money? I know grading isn't cheap. Isnt a toploader or one touch offer enough protection? I have personally never had a card damaged that I had in a toploader or one touch here at my house.

If you know or are pretty sure that it will grade a 9 or lower and only do it for "protection", I see that as wasting money.

I know I might be in the minority there as I know people send in cards that are guaranteed to come back 8.5 or worse by grade it anyways just to have it graded.

[pwskelly]

I have seen protection of the card come up a couple of times now. Im not quite sure I understand that. Yes, being in a beckett case means that the cards will not get damaged in any way shape or form unless its ran over by a truck. However, if that's the only reason to get it graded isn't that wasting money? I know grading isn't cheap. Isnt a toploader or one touch offer enough protection? I have personally never had a card damaged that I had in a toploader or one touch here at my house.

If you know or are pretty sure that it will grade a 9 or lower and only do it for "protection", I see that as wasting money.

I know I might be in the minority there as I know people send in cards that are guaranteed to come back 8.5 or worse by grade it anyways just to have it graded.

I like it for the protection, (yes top loaders and one-touches work as well) but they do not compare to the BGS slab. I once dropped a top loader and the card fell out and the corner got dinged. It was my own dumb fault but the card was numbered out of /25 and I have since only seen one other card on eBay (which I got outbid on of course lol). Now I have this card that was a PC item, looks like crap because I have a big dinged corner, and I can never really sell it unless I heavily discount it. I can't imagine the one touch would have held together either, the drop was about four feet in the air.

Would the BGS case have saved the card? Yes, the case may have been damaged and for looks I would have to get the card recessed, but it would be safe. How do I know? I had a bunch of Challenge for the Cup cards graded BGS 9 years ago and me and my friends tried to damage the cards every which way. Slamming them on concrete or in my paved driveway did not totally break the slab enough to damage the card.

I also like it because it looks nice when displayed as part of my collection. Some people regard grading as a farce, others such as myself enjoy the protection and visual appeal it can offer. Its entirely up to the customer.

Not a BGS spokesperson, I also like PSA for different reasons but my cards are displayed and shown to my friends and guests. I want the best protection that money can buy for rarer PC items. As a result, I prefer Beckett.

Again my opinion and mine only. Good luck with whatever you decide.

[Gibby]

The purpose of getting a card graded is to differentiate it from piles of the others thus adding value ie rough numbers here are 5,000 Crosby YG but only 250 graded 9.5.

In your case the the pile is really small 14 items no need to spent the $$$$ to make it more special it already is.


Close to getting a 1/1 graded ? Would the value increase/decreased base on the grade? I think not IMHO

[japhi]

If you've never graded cards you may be in for a shock if you don't go through the cards very closely. Look closely for surface issues like scratches, chipping on the edges, touched corners and centering. When I submit modern cards I'm only looking for 10s, 9s are a loss or a push (with PSA anyways).

Vintage different story.

[Sharky94]

If you are at a show, you can pay to have it "Raw Graded". It costs less than a full slab. You get it back with the grade they would give you for the card (in a soft protector with tamper-proof sticker), and if you decide to get it slabbed, you simply give it back to them, pay a little extra and get it slabbed. That way, you only pay a part of the overall cost to see what grade you would get before you get it slabbed.

That saves a LOT of money if you are only looking for a certain grade. I have been trying to get the 01 eTopps Hockey set graded at 9.5, and those cards are very tough. I still need 6 of the 35 cards, and I have probably 20 that I got graded that didn't meet the standards. While I could have been more conservative in putting cards in, its only like $7 at a show to get it raw-graded, so I took chances on some of them.

Note--I haven't tried to get any in the past two years, so I am sure their prices have changed. But the "raw grade" is still cheaper.