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Thread: On card autos

     
  1. #1

    On card autos

    So I'm just getting back into the hobby and have been wondering about getting players to sign cards. When trying to do an IP or TTM for an auto on a card, does it hurt the valuation of a #'d/Young Guns/base jersey card? Is it best to only send out base cards?

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  3. #2
    Depends. Are you keeping it for yourself? Or are you planning on trying to sell it in the future? If you are keeping it for your own collection, who cares what it does to the value, as long as you enjoy it? If you are planning on selling it in the future, then yes, base would be the way to go.
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  4. #3
    IP auto on base will put the base in the $1-2 range. IP auto on any other card doesn't seem to change its value.

  5. #4
    I think it really depends on the card and player.

    I've seen success having Tarasenko sign young guns cards and re-selling or trading around $100.

    Average Tarasenko YG $20-$30 per card
    Tarasenko signed with JSA sticker on back of card $38
    $68 into the card and people are buying or trading for them for more than is in them.

    The catch is its a private signing and has a JSA and Tarasenko hasn't signed cards for UD in a few years now which could factor into it. I don't they look bad either looks just as good as UD buyback cards. Here is a picture from section 112 cards.
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  6. #5
    I've got a few cards signed in person. I don't usually go for the YG, rather I'll try to get a good design that allows space for the auto to pop off the cards. Example:



    Depending on the player, and if you take the step to get it authenticated, it can have a significant impact on the value of your YG. Connor McDavid (may have heard of him) apparently won't sign his YG 100% of the time, but if he does and it's a good signature, big jump.

    But it really does vary substantially from player to player. Personally, I prefer now to get the guys to sign a puck or an 8x10/11x14 photo. They get more space to sign and the final product always looks better than on a hockey card, IMO.
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  7. #6
    I like to get the unsigned Future Watch cards of guys on my teams and get them signed IP. Then it looks like you have an FWA. If the card is numbered with a high PR, I don't have a problem with it (unsigned FW, Artifacts rookies, etc). I think it adds a little to the overall impact. But I wouldn't try getting a card numbered to 25 signed or anything like that.

    When it comes to IP autos, I think the actual surface of the card is more important that what card it is. For example, if I have a choice, I'll go with an OPC card over a S1/S2 card any day of the week. You'll get a much nicer signature, and your OPC sig is never going to bubble up or fade. When it comes to IP autos, the quality of the auto is usually the biggest determinant of value. You can sell a nicely signed OPC rookie for a lot more than a smeared/bubbly YG any time. If you want a YG signed, get a Canvas YG -- a little more rare and you'll get a better signature. http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/Sh...CANVAS%20AUTOS
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  8. #7
    Sharky makes a great point about surface. Get something that won't make the marker bubble... OPC cards are MUCH better than anything glossy.... though you can use an eraser to get rid of the gloss.


    For me, this is how it goes......

    If you get the player to sign that card, nobody will that card on their want list would take your card as a copy to satisfy that want. There might be someone out there that really digs the signed card, and wants to buy it at a premium - but it really depends on what it is.

    If you're talking about McDavid (for example) IMO his OPC rookie would look better signed than the Young Gun anyway.... but whatever. If you get his YG signed - nobody looking for a McDavid RC is going to want your copy. Someone who likes the idea of a signed YG might want to pay extra for it... but it's not going to go into my Rookie Card collection, or my 15-16 UD Set.

    If you're doing TTM requests, I would only send cards that you're okay with losing. If it's in person autos.... if you're happy with the end results, I wouldn't worry too much about what other people think. There isn't much of a resale market for modern player's IP autos anyway.... so if you're getting them to sign a $2 jersey card, because that's what you want, I say do it.

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Tripredacus View Post
    IP auto on base will put the base in the $1-2 range. IP auto on any other card doesn't seem to change its value.
    Where are you getting $1-2 autos from lol? The only cheap autos I see on eBay or COMC in general are for mediocre or no-name players, not for any top-6 forwards or top-4 dman.

  10. #9
    I think he means that most IP autos (on base cards) don't sell for more than a buck or two.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sportfreund View Post
    Where are you getting $1-2 autos from lol? The only cheap autos I see on eBay or COMC in general are for mediocre or no-name players, not for any top-6 forwards or top-4 dman.

  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Sportfreund View Post
    Where are you getting $1-2 autos from lol? The only cheap autos I see on eBay or COMC in general are for mediocre or no-name players, not for any top-6 forwards or top-4 dman.
    Go to any big card show, and you see dealers with boxes of modern auto'd cards for $1-$2. At the US National, I spent an hour going through a 5K-count box of hockey autos from the early-80s to now for $1 each. I saw big names like Charlie Simmer, Can Neely, Dave Andrechuk, Evgeni Malkin, etc. But I was simply looking for Sharks from their first season, and I got most of the team. Modern IP autos have little value because of the plethora of "authentic" autos released in wax today. Unless you have Crosby, Price, or Toews, or this year's hottest rookie, nobody cares because you can get a guaranteed auto for dirt cheap on EBay.
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