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  1. #1




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    Wanting to grade a card

    I’m considering grading a card so I can say I have one. Is there a way you choose which one you want or should grade? What cost is there and best company to grade thru? TIA

  2. #2




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    @FallenAngel

    You are probably better buying one then sending one in. My first submission ever was bad, even cards direct from the pack were getting 7s, etc. There is a lot to look at...and be honest with yourself about. See my other post about "The Journey", under the graded cards forum. It's expensive to grade a card, and probably more expensive if you dn't do it often. There are some posts in the forum for group submissions. Even those get expensive sending cards around, just to get them graded.

    Also, as far as who - personal preference. Generaly (in most cases) PSA resells higher. I think PSA's slabs look pretty basic and I like the slabs from some other companies. Unfortunately for me, I have ovr 1300 graded cards and I'm no changes slabs now. So someone PLEASE start a graded card registry with all grading companies on it. LOL So why are you grading> Resale? Just because? PSA is the most expensive. Other's are cheaper. All of them do a good job, some better than others.

    As far as what to grade. Gretzky's rookie, grade it, no matter what condition, grade it. I just sent in a Joe Montana rookie and didn't even care about the grade. I'm doing th esame with some Jery Rice rookies. Sometimes, it just doesn't matter. Your favorite player who played in three games in 7 years. Maybe not, BUT maybe, if you want it. I have 17 graded cards of Dallas Cowbys Wide Receiver Michael Gallup...who cares, he's been out of the league forever. Each one of those cards could have been purchased for .50 or less. Why grade them? I'm No1 on the PSA set registry for Charles Haley, Jay Novacek and No 2 for Michael Irvin. But...You grade cards because you want the cards in a certain documented condition. I have 250,000+ raw cards, s it's not like I don't own ungraded cards. I have passed on higher graded cards because I thought the eye appeal of a lower graded cards was better. See my 8(OC) 1972 Stauback rookie. Better than a lot of 8's in my opinion. So the questions you asked ar all valid, but ask yourself. Why do I want to spend $20 to grade a card? Is it t enhance my collection? Resell? Maintain the condition? Insurance purposes? Who do you want. I may have one? LOL Or I may send one in on my next submission in about 60 days.

    If you really want to do it, it's not cheap, but you can piggy back on my next submission in about 60 days. (I do PSA.) Or find a different group. ISA is here on the boards and they are great! So there are options.

  3. #3




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    thank you for answering I want to have one of two or three favorites Bobrovsky, Matthews, and Vasilevskiy. I have
    two in mind for Bobrovsky and one for vasilevskiy not sure on Matthews



    @FallenAngel

    You are probably better buying one then sending one in. My first submission ever was bad, even cards direct from the pack were getting 7s, etc. There is a lot to look at...and be honest with yourself about. See my other post about "The Journey", under the graded cards forum. It's expensive to grade a card, and probably more expensive if you dn't do it often. There are some posts in the forum for group submissions. Even those get expensive sending cards around, just to get them graded.

    Also, as far as who - personal preference. Generaly (in most cases) PSA resells higher. I think PSA's slabs look pretty basic and I like the slabs from some other companies. Unfortunately for me, I have ovr 1300 graded cards and I'm no changes slabs now. So someone PLEASE start a graded card registry with all grading companies on it. LOL So why are you grading> Resale? Just because? PSA is the most expensive. Other's are cheaper. All of them do a good job, some better than others.

    As far as what to grade. Gretzky's rookie, grade it, no matter what condition, grade it. I just sent in a Joe Montana rookie and didn't even care about the grade. I'm doing th esame with some Jery Rice rookies. Sometimes, it just doesn't matter. Your favorite player who played in three games in 7 years. Maybe not, BUT maybe, if you want it. I have 17 graded cards of Dallas Cowbys Wide Receiver Michael Gallup...who cares, he's been out of the league forever. Each one of those cards could have been purchased for .50 or less. Why grade them? I'm No1 on the PSA set registry for Charles Haley, Jay Novacek and No 2 for Michael Irvin. But...You grade cards because you want the cards in a certain documented condition. I have 250,000+ raw cards, s it's not like I don't own ungraded cards. I have passed on higher graded cards because I thought the eye appeal of a lower graded cards was better. See my 8(OC) 1972 Stauback rookie. Better than a lot of 8's in my opinion. So the questions you asked ar all valid, but ask yourself. Why do I want to spend $20 to grade a card? Is it t enhance my collection? Resell? Maintain the condition? Insurance purposes? Who do you want. I may have one? LOL Or I may send one in on my next submission in about 60 days.

    If you really want to do it, it's not cheap, but you can piggy back on my next submission in about 60 days. (I do PSA.) Or find a different group. ISA is here on the boards and they are great! So there are options.


  4. #4




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    @FallenAngel

    Read my post about the journey and be honest with yourself about what you see. If you'd like, you can scan in the pictures and let me see them, and I will give you my honest opinion.
    Last edited by Rookies_and_More; 10-14-2025 at 10:33 PM.

  5. #5




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    Read my post https://www.sportscardforum.com/thre...y-Jeter-others

    About grading. Be honest with yourself. Also, feel free to post pics and I'll give you my honest opinion.

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